Beth's Corps Experience

Profiling my time as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Macedonia.

Wednesday, February 16, 2005

Second Boarding Trip of the Year!

The day following the tortilla typhoon, about 20 of us convened at MAK 9er, Angie’s place. I was happy to see a lot more MAK 8s (my training group) than I expected and we were able to spend some quality time catching up. It seems that as I have become happier at my new site I have become less reliant the other volunteers. I have fallen out of touch with most of them, excluding Liz and Shaun (of course).

Afraid of having a repeat of New Years (some of you may recall I fell ill after my first slumber party of 2005), I resolved to not drink any alcohol, I took a Big ‘Ol Vitamin and then went to bed at about 10:00, while the rest of the party raged on for a few more hours. I am in my late 20s now; I must heed the warnings of an aging immune system.

We were told that the kombis (Macedonian mini-vans) would arrive at 8:30 (which in Macedonia means 9:00 at the earliest) to take us to the mountain. It was a pretty amusing site seeing 20 of us sitting in the living room exactly at 8:30 patiently waiting for the vans to arrive all decked out in our ski gear (and feeling extremely overheated).

We were all in the vans by 9:15 and we were on our way to Popova Shopka (that’s the name of the mountain in Tetovo). The group piled out of the vans and into the ski rental place. I however, bought a snowboard last year since I have ridiculously small feet and would not have been able to rent one. Plus I was living 6 kilometers away from a ski resort. Anyway, I proceeded to the run and my friend Hugo (the other boarder) went to the ticket booth and then to the first of many rope tows.

Oh, the pain of rope tows for a snowboarder. The first series of lifts were rope tows with some sort of a disc type thing on the end that skiers can just wedge between their legs. When Hugo and I tried it we were simply sent flying into the air and landed flat on our faces. Ouch. The line to get to the rope tow of humiliation was so wicked that Hugo and I decided we would just hike up the hill. Once I arrived at the top of the hill I was confident that I had already done my workout for the day.

From the first hill there were many other rope tows (and 2 chairlifts in sight, but neither were working) but these tows were the T-bar type, which are more forgiving to boarders. I made it a bit shy of ¾ of the way up and then I fell, Hugo told me he got about halfway up and was tossed, but hung on and was dragged up the remaining portion. Nice.

The abundant snow was perfect for boarding and I noticed a huge difference in my ability to link turns within the first few minutes of heading downhill. As I approached the T-bar lift for my third trip upward I noticed one of the chairlift was working. I changed course and steered in that direction. It made all the difference in the world.

In the middle of my third run I noticed my left binding started moving. I was able to make it down the hill without too much trouble and I headed over to chat with the lift operators.
Tetovo is predominantly populated by ethnic Albanians, and my Albanian language skills are not well developed. Asking for a screwdriver to fix my board is hard enough to do in Macedonian...but in Albanian? Good Lord!

I started out my first conversation with a friendly Mirëdita (good day) and then quickly switched into Macedonian to actually convey my point. I found out, in a short amount of time, that no one carries a screwdriver with them. After talking to 3 lift operators I headed toward a pack of Macedonian military boys who were apparently guarding the ski area (I don’t know a lot about it). I asked them if they had “something that will help me fix my board” and then demonstrated the problem with the slippy binding. They were all toolless and I made a little joke about how “since they were the military they were supposed to have things to fix other things.” I got a lot of laughs but I am pretty sure it wasn’t because of my witty comment and really I said something completely inappropriate, but I will never really know. Regardless, I was again without a solution to my problem and feared needing to scale yet another hill to get to the rental shack, where I know they had tools.

Then…out of nowhere a kid (probably about 15 or 16) came running at me with a screwdriver. I have never been so excited to see someone running at me with a screwdriver! He fixed my board and I gave him a big hug. I think we might be engaged now, but I am not certain.

After I got my board fixed I ate my lunch of balance bar (I am running low if anyone wants to send me a care package) and water and headed back to the lift. I got in 3 or 4 more runs and met a number of nice men on the lift. Interesting to note, I didn’t see a whole lot of women on the mountain. And I saw only one other girl snowboarding…and she quit much earlier when she was thrown off the T-bar 3 times in a row.

Most exciting moments of the day:
-Impromptu Albanian vocabulary lesson in line with relentless pushing children. I learned how to say “WAIT!” and “NO CULTURE!”

-Middle aged man asking me how old I was. When I responded with “27” he told me I looked 15 (Yippee, I LOVE IT!) and asked me to meet his 25 year old son who was at the hotel eating lunch (I graciously declined the offer).

-Another Albanian language lesson mid chair-lift from a 16 year old boy. I learned the words for snowboard and fall (but I promptly forgot them).

It was a great day, I can’t wait to return (hopefully in 2 weeks!)

Second Boarding Trip of the Year!

This is the view from Popova Shopka, the ski resort outside of Tetovo.

"Fashion not Function" Adam

Second Boarding Trip of the Year!

This is MAK 9er, Adam, who in this photo kind of looks like that American kid who was caught fighting with the Taliban. A village of weekend houses is in the background.

Impromptu Albanian Instructor!

Second Boarding Trip of the Year!
This was one of my instructors in my impromptu Albanian language lessons.

Friday, February 11, 2005

Tortilla Tempest

About 20 or so volunteers are meeting in Tetovo (the same place we were for New Years) and we will ski (or snowboard in my case) on Saturday. Since we are staying at our friend Angie's house we are all bringing various food items.

Shaun and I were assigned tortilla chips but we found out that they aren't available at the big (luxury) store where we thought we could find them so instead we decided we would go crazy and MAKE the tortillas.

For two people who don't spend a ton of time trying new recipes this turned into very much an all night affair.We started out making corn flour tortillas. Wow, that was messy. The batter seemed to be the proper consistency and fit the description of the recipe, but when we cooked them we were dissapointed with the final product. The good news is that we think we can use them as frizbees, or back up loofah sponges.

We went back to drawing board (actually we went back to allrecipes.com) and started from scratch with a new recipe. The second one worked very well but the recipe did not yield the amount it said so we had to make another batch. Thank God I took a nap earlier in the day! Finally we finished (at about 1:30 am) and we had 25 good tortillas and about 20 faux-frizbees. Maybe we will make them into tortilla chips.

Here is a photo of Shaun tending the tortillas.
Tortilla Tempest

It was messy!

And this is me making the doughballs...
Tortilla Tempest

Friday, February 04, 2005

Sheep Breeders Association General Assembly

The Last few weeks Luli (my counterpart) and I have spent preparing for our annual General Assembly for Western Regional Sheep Breeders Association. We have been visiting all the local associations and telling them about what will happen at the meeting, as well as preparing them for the upcoming election for the office of the president, the management board and supervisory board.

The meeting was originally scheduled to take place January 27 but because of a huge snowstorm we had to postpone for a week. We had the meeting on February 3 and we had representatives from all the local associations except from Kruševo, they were too deep in snow to dig out.

The meeting went well; a new president and management board was elected. Now we will begin work for year and things are going to get pretty busy. The biggest task I with which I will be involved is applying for funds and organizing a cheese and wine festival in the big tourist town, Ohrid. We (the association) will handle all of the cheese presenters and vendors and we will invite a variety of local purveyors of wine. I am really excited about this because I really like working with the people at the organization who are going to fund the festival and I will be gaining some awesome experience working with a usaid contracting organization.

Sheep Breeders Association General Assembly
Pictured here is Luli (far right) who was translating from Albanian to Macedonian and Qamil, the president from 2002-2004. To the left of Qamil is Murat, Mexhet and Djuro, all memebers of the management board.

Again with the Posters

Again with the Posters

Is it obvious what talents I have been honing while in Macedonia?


Thursday, February 03, 2005

I Finished My Proposal!

For those of you who don’t know, I am a Masters International Peace Corps Volunteer. What this means is that I am concurrently enrolled in graduate school and my time in the PC is somehow integrated into my graduate studies.

All the MI programs are a little different. Most of the other MIs I know here will head back to their schools when they are finished with their service in Macedonia. My program however, is not like that. During my time here I must write a proposal for a field paper—and then write the field paper, the field paper must be completed by the time I complete my service (COS). Once I am done with both the field paper and my service I am totally finished and there is no need for me to go back to Michigan (great news for this Portland Lover!).

The field paper is an analysis of a development project that meets specific some criteria (dollar amount, duration of project, country etc). Last year I selected the Land O'Lakes Macedonia Agribusiness Marketing Activity (MAMA) as my project. I submitted a rough draft of my proposal in mid January and the revised proposal last week. I am happy to say that I think I may actually be finished...if not I will have to make just a few more changes (I hope anyway).

Now I must write surveys to send to folks who get their products tested at the Seal of Quality lab and get my hands on previous marketing surveys and research and then the paper writing will begin!

Interestingly enough, as I was wrapping up my paper my friend Shaun and I located the best beer (at an affordable price) available in Macedonia, Temno Laško (Laško is the brewery and Temno means dark) in our town. This may not sound like a difficult task, but in a city where 70 percent of the population is Muslim, finding alcohol isn’t always the easiest endeavor.

I Finished My Proposal!
Pictured here: Me and Shaun celebrating both me finally finishing my proposal and our wonderful fortune in finding good beer in Gostivar!